As I mentioned in my Mini Master Sword project, when I was commissioned to 3D print the Mini Master Sword, I was also commissioned to make a mini Hyrule shield to go with it. This was a fun and challenging project so let’s jump right into it!
The Hyrule shield is a fairly famous shield in the Legend Of Zelda game series and (as far as I can tell) appears in every Zelda game, usually as the final and most powerful shield available to the player, and is often the hardest to get ahold of. The Hyrule shield that I made also proved to have its own share of unique challenges. The first and most prominent challenge is that of its unique shape. The entire shield bent inwards a fair amount, which is probably what the real shield would do if it weren’t from a fictional universe. Although this might be a good trait to have in a real shape, it proved to be challenging in a 3D print because it limits the number of contact points the shield has with the build plate.
Although you cant see in this picture, there is a flimsy handle on the back of the shield that, along with that very small point at the very bottom of the shield, are the only two points of contact this shield has with the build plate. As I mentioned in my Mini Master Sword post, this problem is generally fixed with a setting on your printer that builds support material around the points that need support, and then after the build is done this support material can be broken away to reveal the piece built on top of it. As I also mentioned in my Mini Master Sword post, this process results in rough material in the areas that the build material was used which for this print is the entire back of the shield.
With the Mini Master Sword, this was not that big of a deal, but with the Hyrule Shield, the amount of area that was left rough was kind ridiculous. The problem was compounded by the fact that PLA (the build material) is not very accepting of sanding and so, even though I spent a decent amount of time on trying to sand the area smoothe, I was eventually forced to give up and leave the area rough. This was fine since it was on the back of the piece but as a craftsman, any blemish is a disgrace, especially if the piece is meant for someone else. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to fix this problem so I am forced to accept this blemish until I become more skilled and have learned how to overcome this problem.
The rest of this project was refreshingly problem free. There is, however, a piece of advice I would like to give to anyone who is attempting this project themselves, and it is in regards to the painting of the shield. One of the universal problems facing tinkerers who are trying to paint complex projects is how to paint the entire piece without spilling into areas that are not supposed to paint. With this shield. this was actually a fairly easy endeavor due to the layered design of the shield. The easiest method is to first paint on the blue and to fill in the area that will be covered by the silver, but try to stay away from the yellow unless you have a very opaque yellow that can cover that dark of a blue.
You may be able to tell from these photos but the red part and the silver on the outside is actually raised up from the blue so if you paint the blue up the walls of these areas and then cover the top with the appropriate coloring, the line you get will be very clean and crisp.
This project was a fun one and was a good match for my Mini Master Sword project. I hope this post has been entertaining for you and if you know how to clean up the rough areas left behind from the support material, please let me know in the comment section below. I had fun making this project and I hope it has inspired you in some way! Soon after this project, my 3D printer broke and so has been out of commission for the last few weeks but I hope to get it up an running again soon so I can do more projects like this in the future. Thanks for reading and Happy Tinkering!
This print was designed by fasteddy516
Pictures by the same (the ones with the wood background are mine)